Sunday, November 16th, 2008

My boyfriend Bobby and I departed from the homeland (Danville) around 11:00am (as planned, which is a miracle if you know us!) Sunday morning to head in to San Francisco. It wasn't your typical Fall day here in the Bay Area, the weather was perfect, 73 degrees and not a cloud in the sky! I don't think we could have asked for a most beautiful day for our "roadtrip"! All was going well until we ran into a little bit of this.... (lovely!)
Apparently there was a 49ers game that started at 1:00pm and therefore we weren't the only ones heading across the bridge around 11:30 (oops, bad planning on my part, oh well!). But hey, a little traffic never hurt anybody, now did it?

Okay, back to the task at hand... I had originally chosen to visit Point Isabelle so that I could include my kids, I mean, my dogs in my trip. But after an unfortunate encounter with a nasty racoon, the pups were forced to sit this one out... So it was back to the drawing board. Since I couldn't include my first love in my trip, I figured what could be better than going to look at some fine real estate. One of our (the bf and I) favorites things to do is just drive and look at houses, whether it be at home in Danville, the hills of Berkeley or the streets of San Francisco.

So, Pacific Heights it was! We had driven through the area many times before, but with the help of the handy dandy book "Memorable Walks in San Francisco", not only were we able to see some incredible houses, but we were able to learn the history of the area as well! Pacific Heights is located in one of the most scenic and park-like settings in Northern California, offering panoramic views of the Golden Gate Bridge, the San Francisco Bay, Alcatraz, and the Presidio. The neighborhood evolved after the cable car line was built in 1878. "Vistas were expensive, and only San Francisco's wealthiest could afford to built homes here. Over time, Pacific Heights has become one of San Francisco's most highbrow neighborhoods." (Frommer's, p.92)






After grabbing some lunch at one of our favorite places in North Beach, we were off to start our tour which included 16 different "stops"...















The first stop was at the
"Mary Phelan Mansion", at 2150 Washington St. The Italian Renaissance
Revival mansion was built in 1915 for Mary Phelan, the sister of James D. Phelan, who was the mayor of San Francisco from 1894 to 1902. Neither James nor Mary ever married and James had his own suite in his sister's house. Although I found the history of the house interesting, it wasn't my favorite of the tour.






Next stop, the "Whittier Mansion", at 2090 Jackson St. It was built in 1896 for William Frank Whittier (former director of Pacific Gas & Electric Company) by an architect named Edward R. Swain. Swain used modern technology in his design and included features such as a hydraulic elevator, electric light fixtures, central heat, and steel reinforcement in its brick and Arizona sandstone walls. I was amazed to learn that with such advanced technologies, the Whittier Mansion was able to survive the 1906 earthquake and fire (woa!). This unique house definitely commanded the corner and demanded attention!









The third stop, was "Ottilie R. Schubert Hall"
at 2099 Pacific Ave. First off, I thought this house was amaaazing! It was originally built in 1904 for John D. Spreckles, who was the son of Claus Spreckles (the "Sugar King"). After moving to San Francisco and opening grocery store and brewery, Claus Spreckles started the Bay Sugar Refining Company. I guess you could say this house pretty "sweet"!







Stop number four was at 2000 Pacific Ave (no name!). "This Queen Anne-style home is one of San Francisco's most beautiful Painted Ladies." (Frommer's, p. 94) This house was gorgeous and had such amazing detailing in the frieze around the top. Not to mention, it has an unbeatable view!





Next on the list (numero cinco) was Lafeyette Park, which in addition to its beauty, has an interesting (looong) history behind it. It started with one of the earliest residents of SF, a man by the name of Samuel Holladay, who sought refuge on a hilltop because he couldn't stand the noise and lack of privacy on Montgomery St. After the city decided that no person could live on two full city blocks, a lawsuit broke out because Holladay refused to move. The battle continued for many years but eventually the city paid Holladay a "tidy" sum for his land and instead of building a road through it, the city leveled his house, planted more trees and added benches, turning it into a public park. And that is just the beginning of the history that is....

*this is me, alone at the edge of the park, because a certain bf didn't want to be in the picture!*

Being that the weather was beyond ideal, the park was packed with people. Some playing frisbee, some sunbathing, some reading a good book, some just taking a stroll but ALL enjoying a beautiful Sunday in the city. I, personally, could have spend the whole day here and hope to go back for a visit soon!



On to stop number six, the "Spreckles Mansion" at 2080 Washington St. This was definitely one of my favorites stops (even though its not my style), not only because it took up an ENTIRE block (consider the "Parthenon of the West") but also the on going history of the estate. The mansion, completed in 1913, was once owned by Adolph Spreckles (another son of the "Sugar King") and his wife, Alma de Bretteville. Alma (who we learned about in class, Sept. 23) modeled at age 15 for photographer Arnold Genthe and was the model for the statue of Victory atop the Dewey monument in Union Square.


Some fun facts:
1) The mansion has been the set of several movies, including the 1957 film Pal Joey and the 1969 flick The Eye of the Cat.
2) For a period of time, the mansion (55-rooms!!!) was divided into apartments.
3) Romance writer, Danielle Steel, dropped a cool $8 mil. on the historic pad in 1990. And she still lives there! (I waited a bit to see if we'd see her but no such luck. The place is a wee bit private if you didn't notice!)


(graffiti... not cool!)




Stop seven, the 2000 block of Gough Street, which lines one side of Lafeyette Park. This street offers some fine Victorian houses, some built in Queen Anne style (the most elaborate and the most eccentric of all Victornian styles).
I particularly loved this house because of the bold colors which I thought gave it personality ----->

































Next on the list, stop eight, was the "Haas-Lilienthal House Museum" at 2007 Franklin Street and is also the headquarters for San Francisco Architectural Heritage. Alice Haas- Lilienthal, daughter of the original owners, lived in the house from 1886-1972 and was able to preserve the history of the house despite the "up and downs of the neighborhood. Two years after her death, Alice's family donated the house to the foundation. Tours are given where you can see furniture from that time period and get a glimpse of the history of an old San Francisco family. Unfortunately, we did not get the opportunity to take part in the tour, but maybe next time!
















Just a few blocks south, at stop number nine, was the "Bransten House" at 1735 Franklin Street. This house, (which is obviously getting some work done on it) built in 1904, was a wedding gift from the Haas family to their daughter Florine and her new coffee magnate husband, Edward Bransten. Florine lived here alone for nearly 30 years after her husband died in 1948. Her sister lived just three blocks away (who knows if that was a good thing or not though!) and Florine hosted her from time to time.







Our tenth stop was just south at 1701 Franklin Street (the corner of California St.), was the "Edward Coleman House". This house was built in 1895 and is another Queen Anne-style beauty. It once served at a boarding house and was fully restored in 1975 when a law firm purchased it.*looks nice, don't you think?*


Stop number eleven was at 1990 California Street. The home was owned by Dominga de Goni. She, her son George and her daughter-in-law Gertrude Atherton (novelist) moved here after Dominga's husband died in 1880. The chuckled (in the nicest way possible of course) after reading the story behind George and Gertrude's relationship. George proposed to Gertrude five times before she finally said yes. Gertrude was miserable. She described George as illiterate, boring and nagging and apparently his mother agreed... George was unhappy (understandably?) and decided to take a trip to Chile to get away from them both. Shortly after he department, he died when his kidney ruptured. After his death, Gertrude and Dominga felt his ghostly presence in the house and moved out. Other tenants since then have also noticed strange things that suggest his ghost is still there. And in that case, I'm glad I don't live there!











The next stop (number twelve) was just down the road at 2026 California Street is a beauty. "This Italianate home with its rather blatant blue, bronze and white color scheme is a stately addition to this block. Note the Egyptian head above the doorway -- it is reflected in the interior in an Egyptian mural above the fireplace." (Frommer's, p. 99) Driving down California Street, this one is sure to catch your eye. And, again, I love the vibrancy in the color that gives it character.









Stop thirteen was just across the street at 2101 California Street, is where Gertrude Atherton had a apartment beginning in 1929. She, being one of San Francisco's most important writers, help many literary functions and salons here until she was well into her 80s.We had a hard time finding this one (at this point we were back in the car and yes, we're kinda lazy... thanks for reminding me!) and ended up driving up and down California Street a few times before I realized it was in fact the one I first thought it was. Give me a break, the construction and netting covering the entire place made it made to see! :)



Fillmore Street was next on the list at stop fourteen. This street is lined with women's clothing boutiques, bath and beauty shops, cafes and restaurants. People swarmed the streets, eating, shopping and once again, enjoying the gorgeous weather. I asked a couple on the street if they lived in the area or if they were just visiting and what they thought of it. They said they were visiting from out of state for the first time. "It's gorgeous here and there is so much to see... The house are unlike anything I've seen before!" They seemed like they were having a good time. I even recommended one of the places in the book (Bittersweet) and off they went. Everywhere you looked there was something yummy to eat or a store that would tempt you to open up your pocket book and spend money you don't have (oh wait, that might just be me!). Which might also explain why I didn't get that great of a picture of the actual street... I was too busy window shopping and looking for a sweet treat!







However, I wasn't too busy to stop and take in these ridiculously amazing (is that okay to say in a homework assignment?) views as we continued down Fillmore Street. Let's all just take a minute to take it in...

*aahhh... that was nice, wasn't it?*



Number fifteen is at the intersection of Fillmore and Union streets, also the heart of Cow Hollow. Some might wonder how it received its name... (I did!) Well, back in 1861, the land was occupied by 30 dairy farms! Due to pollution from slaughterhouses, the dairy farms were shut down and never allowed in the city again. Since the 1950s, Union St. has evolved into a "shopper's delight", which many people (including myself) would confirm. Many of the shops and restaurants are located in old Victorian homes. This is a great area to come for the day, shop a little, grab a bite to eat and just enjoy the surroundings. If it wasn't already so late in the day, we definitely would have made an excuse to stop!




Heading east on Union we found our sixteenth stop, the "Octagon House", at the corner of Union and Gough streets. "This unusual, eight-sided, cupola-topped house was built at a time when it was rumored that octagonal spaces made for a healthier existence, and although it makes for interesting architecture, there was never any proof that this claim was true." (Frommer's, p. 101) The house, built in 1861, is now a museum and the home of National Society of Colonial Dames of America... I remember seeing this house before and thinking how random it was and now I know it really is!






And that, my friends, was the end of our 16-stop "walking" (okay, part driving) tour of
The Majestic Homes of Pacific Heights
. I was pleased at the end of the day when I walked away knowing more about an area I have admired for such a long time. It's easy to drive through Pacific Heights and just think, "Wow, a whole lot of rich people live here!" But I find it far more interesting to know the history behind the houses and I hope you do too!

To finish off the day, we took a drive over the one and only Golden Gate Bridge (also known as the longer way home, oh well) and made a quick stop in (at?) the Marin Headlands. Did I mention the weather was nice? :)
* a picture with the bf, so you don't think i'm making him up... kidding! :) *